Reaper Bones III Graveyard Set – Mausoleum

Reaper Bones III is here! @blackfalconky got his haul in a few days ago and I’ve completed a few pieces already. I’m a fan of the graveyard set they included this year, especially the mausoleum (chapel possibly?).

I attempted an oxidized copper effect for the first time on this piece. I’m pleased with how well it turned out for a first attempt. I used an old craft copper paint I had laying around (DecoArt, Worn Penny) and Vallejo for the oxidization color. I used 1 part Magic Blue, 2 parts Goblin Green, 1 part Dead White, and 6 parts water. I also used 3 parts alcohol on some of the parts to help with running.

Also, here are some suggestions I have when working with this piece. The spiked roof topping is a separate piece. Glue this piece onto the roof before painting. It was a nightmare trying to get it to fit after painting, even with being careful not to paint on the joints. It took me 30 minutes of sanding and cutting to get it to fit. I don’t know if it was my cast or what. But just to be safe glue that bad boy in there before you throw paints at it. Second, if you intend to game inside the piece do not glue the walls together. The roof does not come out without having to take at least the front or back wall off. Kind of a design fail in my opinion, but luckily it stays together okay without being glued.

 

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Reaper Bones Griffon Mini

Hello!

It’s been just a wee bit since my last post. Life got crazy with graduating and the holidays. I finally got some time to sit down and paint!

Last night I walked by the blank Griffon mini by Reaper Miniatures and was instantly inspired by it. Once finished, I got out my new lightbox that a friend got me for Christmas and started taking pictures of it. This is my first time using a lightbox and I am in LOVE with the way these pictures turned out. I can’t get my backdrop to completely iron out so I just photoshopped out the background.

Enjoy!

Griffon3

Griffon1

Griffon2

Tapestry

Tapestry
Tapestry

A while back Charles gave me several of the torch bases from the HA mold #85. They have been sitting on the second shelf of my desk and I got tired of staring at them. A few months ago I tried to make a torch with a toothpick and cotton swab and it just turned out looking like a q-tip accident gone horribly, horribly wrong.

After tinkering with a toothpick in it, the idea hit me to make it into a tapestry. I realized I already had everything that I needed so I got started.

The supplies used sans paint and glue. Twine that I unraveled one of the pieces from the three twisted together, two toothpicks, small jewelry ring, and scrap material.

The supplies used sans paint and glue. Twine that I unraveled one of the pieces from the three twisted together, two toothpicks, small jewelry ring, and scrap material.

First, I painted the torch base a copper metallic to match the theme of our current dungeon. I cut the ends off of the two toothpicks and then I took a homemade stain and stained the toothpicks a dark brown.

Next, I glued one of the toothpicks into the torch base.

Toothpick inserted While that was drying I toke one of the jewelry rings and cut it in half. I picked these up at Hobby Lobby ages ago when I attempted to make mini chain mail. (I will save that for another post.) I don’t know the exact sizes of them because I don’t have the original packaging. Just pick up something pretty small.

I used a pair of old wire cutters to cut this in half.

I used a pair of old wire cutters to cut this in half.

Next, I laid the torch base on it’s side and attempted to glue this tiny little half ring to it. This was probably the hardest part. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold it while the glue started to initially harden. I dipped the ends of the ring in Aleene’s Tacky Glue and then held it in place for a few moments while it started to dry a bit. Then I used the pliers to hold the ring up. It kept wanting to fall over while drying.

Gluing the ring onWhile that was drying I started cutting out the tapestry. I just eyeballed the size and kept cutting until I got the shape I wanted. Luckily, when making an outfit for Halloween a couple of years ago I had picked up the $1 handkerchiefs that Hobby Lobby sells. I just grabbed one of those when looking around for some fabric. I don’t recommend buying anything expensive. This fabric did the trick.

I then cut down the other toothpick to fit the size of the tapestry with just a little extra on each side.

I then cut down the other toothpick to fit the size of the tapestry with just a little extra on each side.

I didn’t take any pictures of the actual painting of the tapestry. I thinned out an olive green acrylic paint with a bit of water. Not enough to make it milk consistency, but just enough to let it flow around the fabric. The paint dries really quickly so you can move fast on this process. I then mixed up a bloody red and painted on the sun symbol. After that was dryish I took a dark brown wash and dabbed it around. I specifically paid attention to the edges of the tapestry. I was trying to go for a worn look.

TapestryOnce it was completely dry I put a line of glue on the edge of the tapestry and rolled it onto the toothpick. I then let that dry for a bit.

The next part is a bit tricky. I took the twine and wrapped it around one end of the tapestry. After it dried I fed the twine with the tapestry attached through the ring on the stand itself. Carefully, I wrapped and glued the twine to the other side of the tapestry then cut the excess off.

Voila! Tapestry. I want to make more of these with different shapes and designs on the tapestry. When I do it again I think I am going to wait to glue the metal ring on after I have the twine attached to the tapestry and glue the ring over it instead of trying to thread it through.

Sacrificial Altar

Blood really ties in a dungeon, don’t you think?

This is an original Charles Plemons design (with needed help from his wife). I don’t have any step by step for this. The amazing Aztec tiles are from Keebler Studios. You can grab those here.

Later on I am going to make a tutorial for the candles. Those were made 100% out of Sculptey. Even those tiny, tiny wicks.

At first I thought was done with the altar but then I quickly realized I needed even more blood. You can’t go wrong with that choice.

Before After After AfterAfterAfter

Rope Bridge Design

This was made before I started this blogging mess. Charles and I wanted an iconic rope bridge for our Lost Temple style dungeon. I mean how could we even call it that if we didn’t have one?

This was my second attempt at a rope bridge. I made a very small baby one at first and worked my way up to this.

To build this, Charles first cast and glued the steps together for me. Then I painted the steps, washed them, and glued in bamboo skewers into them. Next, and bear with me it’s been a bit since making this, I glued the bottom support ropes on each side to the correct tautness. I then wrapped the ends around to make it look tied and sealed them in glue. After that, I then glued stained, cut up to look worn, wooden planks across the bottom twine ropes. Then, I glued the top twine ropes and created the “support” ropes between the bamboo skewers.

To finish it off, I looped the twine rope between the top and bottom ropes, and tied them where the knots are located at.

After I looked at it, I realized the twine was too fuzzy and a lot of cutting with scissors ensued. I then sealed all the ropes with a watered down clear scenic glue.

Here are the final results. Obviously, in the future I will be taking in between steps.

Fiery Coal Pits Tutorial

Step 1

Foam board and tile border.

First, take some foam board and cut it to the size of the floor piece you want. Then glue together Hirst Art bricks in the outer edge design that you want. Place the outer edge on the foam board and trace out the inside of the foam board. Then, (and I didn’t do this part so bear with me) hollow out the foam board until you have all of the foam out and just the other out layer. It’s just fine if the foam board isn’t made completely smooth from hollowing it out. That adds to the texture.

Then take some larger sand. I bought this kind from Hobby Lobby. I am not sure of the name of the brand but it’s just the larger granular sand. Put as much as you need, and you really don’t need a whole lot, into a snack baggie. Drop a few drops of black acrylic paint into the baggie with the rock sand. Then it’s like using Shake ‘N Bake. I also just kind of massaged all the sand until it was all coated. Since the rocks are going to be wet I dumped them out onto aluminum foil (parchment paper would work) and then let it all dry. This doesn’t take long at all. If it clumps at all you can roll it around in your fingers to break it apart.

Step 2

Small rocks used.

Now I wish I had more pictures of my steps but I didn’t realize it would be so well received! Your next step is to paint the foam board. In the first image you can see that I have painted the top edges black. Since you don’t perfectly cut the foam board around the bricks, as these have rounded edges, you will still see the foam board. Painted the edges black helps hide them and makes it barely noticeable. Now, starting from the inside of the foam board back sure that up the walls of the foam board you paint it black. Also, on the bottom of the foam board paint an outer circle of black. Then, in the middle paint it the brightest orange you have. I used Apple Barrel’s Pumpkin Orange but any bright orange will work. Next, I dab small amounts of yellow and on between the orange and black on the floor I paint a bit of red to fade the black into the orange.

Once that has dried, which your rocks will have dried too by then, sprinkle them on top. Don’t put too many on there as you want the color to peek through but as much as you would like will do. After you have them how you want them arranged, spray the whole inside of the foam board with a type of thin spray glue. I used Scenearama’s Scenic Spray Glue, that’s typically used on sprinkle scenery grass. Spray generously. You are trying to seal and lock the “coals” into place.

Now wait for that to completely dry. Don’t get impatient like I tend to our on this next step you will push the coals around. After it’s dry, dry brush, very lightly, an ash gray. I looked up many pictures of coals to try and get this right. If you want some that look like they have been burning longer dry brush more ash gray. If you want them to appear hotter just use a medium amount. That is what I used.

Step 3

Finished coal pits.

Mitch Michaelson, from Terrainosaur.com, created a video tutorial of this technique. Thankfully, he is incredibly talented and has the equipment to make these! Check it out!

Welcome to DaintyDungeons!

I’m going to attempt to maintain a place where I can document and share my adventures with painting tabletop roleplaying terrain.

Bear with me as I get used to some things here: blogging… tutorials… Is that really it? I wonder why it feels like more.

Stay tuned for future posts!